Chazhashi

By Mariam Lomidze, GTour desk · Fact-checked against the sources listed · Last checked 17 October 2026 · Editorial policy

Overview

Chazhashi is a cluster of medieval stone towers and stone houses forming part of Ushguli, a community of four villages at the head of the Enguri gorge in Mestia Municipality, in the historic Georgian province of Svaneti. Sitting at roughly 2,100 metres above sea level beneath the Shkhara massif, Chazhashi is often described as one of the best-preserved medieval settlements in the Caucasus, its defensive towers rising directly above stone-walled farmyards that have changed little in centuries. The village and its neighbours are inscribed together on the UNESCO World Heritage List as Upper Svaneti, recognised for the exceptional survival of a medieval mountain landscape and its vernacular architecture.

The place matters because it preserves, in continuous use, the type of tower-house that once defended most Svan villages against avalanches, blood feuds and raiding parties, but which has disappeared almost everywhere else. Chazhashi is also among the highest permanently inhabited settlements in Europe, and its combination of towers, church sites and glacier views has made it a reference point for anyone studying Georgian highland architecture, as well as a fixture on itineraries covering the Mestia–Ushguli route.

History

The towers of Chazhashi and the wider Ushguli community are generally dated by architectural historians to the ninth to thirteenth centuries, a period when Svaneti’s relative isolation allowed local lords and extended families to build fortified homes as protection against external threats and internal feuds, a practice described in the UNESCO nomination documentation for Upper Svaneti. Medieval Georgian chronicles record Svaneti as a semi-autonomous highland province loyal to the Georgian crown, valued for its metalwork and for sheltering religious treasures moved from lowland churches during periods of invasion.

Through the Russian imperial period and into the Soviet era, Ushguli and Chazhashi remained difficult to reach for much of the year, which helped preserve both the built fabric and local customs largely unaltered, as noted in general accounts of Ushguli’s history. Soviet-era road building improved access from Mestia but did not fundamentally alter the settlement pattern. In 1996 the site was formally inscribed by UNESCO as Upper Svaneti, covering Chazhashi together with the villages of Zhibiani, Chvibiani and Murkmeli that make up the Ushguli community, in recognition of the concentration of medieval tower houses and the continuity of the surrounding agricultural landscape. Conservation and monitoring of the towers has since been coordinated with Georgian heritage authorities, including the national body responsible for cultural heritage preservation.

What to see

The Svan towers of Chazhashi

The densest and best-preserved cluster of defensive towers in the Ushguli community stands in Chazhashi, with stone houses attached directly to tower bases in the traditional Svan configuration. Most towers rise four to five storeys, built without mortar in their earliest phases and reinforced over later centuries. Several remain in private use as storage or livestock shelter, which gives the village a lived-in character rather than that of an open-air museum.

Views toward Shkhara

From the upper lanes of Chazhashi, the glaciated north face of Shkhara, Georgia’s highest peak, is visible on clear days, framing the towers against the Greater Caucasus watershed. The approach from Mestia offers repeated vantage points along the Enguri valley before the final climb into the village.

Lamaria church complex

A short walk from Chazhashi, on the edge of the Ushguli community, stands the medieval Lamaria church complex, a fortified religious site associated with Svan ritual practice and pilgrimage traditions described in regional ethnographic literature. The churchyard and surrounding walls add another layer to the fortified character of the settlement.

Ushguli community and surrounding hamlets

Chazhashi is best understood as one quarter of the larger Ushguli community; a walk of under an hour connects it to the neighbouring hamlets of Zhibiani, Chvibiani and Murkmeli, each with its own towers and small chapels, allowing visitors to see the full UNESCO-listed ensemble in a single day.

Getting there

From Tbilisi, reaching Chazhashi takes approximately 8 hours 10 minutes by road, via Kutaisi and Zugdidi to Mestia, followed by the mountain road to Ushguli. From Kutaisi the drive is around 4 hours 25 minutes, and from Batumi approximately 6 hours 40 minutes, both routes joining the Zugdidi–Mestia road before the final unpaved and partly paved stretch to Ushguli. Marshrutka minibuses run from Tbilisi’s Didube station and from Zugdidi to Mestia, with a connecting Mestia–Ushguli service in summer months only; there is no rail link beyond Zugdidi, the nearest station served by Georgian Railway. GTour’s guide to the Mestia–Ushguli route covers the drive in more detail, and travellers should check current road status before departure, since the final section above Mestia can close after heavy rain, snow or landslides.

When to go

The road to Ushguli is generally passable from late May or June through October, with July and August offering the most reliable conditions and the fullest range of guesthouse accommodation. Snow can block the route from November to April, and even in shoulder months unpaved sections may require a high-clearance vehicle. Early summer brings the clearest views of the surrounding glaciers before afternoon cloud builds over the peaks.

Where to stay and eat

Accommodation in Chazhashi and the wider Ushguli community is limited to family-run guesthouses offering home-cooked Svan meals, with most visitors basing themselves in Mestia for a wider choice of hotels and restaurants before the day trip to Ushguli. GTour’s verified register lists more options below, including guesthouses, drivers and private tour itineraries that combine Chazhashi with other Svaneti sights; see also the regional guides and best-of selections for current recommendations.

Practical notes

Mobile network coverage in Ushguli is intermittent, and card payment is rarely available, so cash in Georgian lari is recommended. The towers are private property in many cases and should be viewed from outside unless a guide or owner grants access. Warm layers are advisable even in summer, since nights at this altitude are cold and weather can change quickly.

Questions travellers ask

Is Chazhashi the same place as Ushguli?

Chazhashi is one of four hamlets that together make up the Ushguli community; it holds the densest concentration of medieval towers and is often the focal point of a visit, but Ushguli as a whole includes the neighbouring villages of Zhibiani, Chvibiani and Murkmeli.

Is Chazhashi a UNESCO World Heritage Site?

Yes. Chazhashi forms part of the Upper Svaneti inscription on the UNESCO World Heritage List, listed in 1996 for its medieval tower houses and surrounding mountain landscape.

Can Chazhashi be visited as a day trip from Mestia?

Yes, most visitors travel from Mestia and return the same day, since the drive each way takes roughly three hours depending on road conditions, though staying overnight allows more time to explore all four Ushguli hamlets.

Is the road to Chazhashi paved?

Sections of the Mestia–Ushguli road remain unpaved and can be rough, particularly after rain, so a reliable vehicle or an organised transfer is recommended rather than a standard rental car.

What is the best time of year to see the towers against Shkhara?

Clear mornings in June, July and August offer the best combination of accessible roads and unobstructed views of Shkhara’s glaciated face above the towers.

Are the towers open to enter?

Most towers remain privately owned and are not generally open to the public; some guesthouse owners allow guests to climb an attached tower by arrangement.

How high is Chazhashi?

The village sits at approximately 2,100 metres above sea level, making it one of the highest permanently inhabited settlements in Europe.

Is it safe to drive to Chazhashi independently?

The route is generally safe in summer for experienced mountain drivers, but conditions can deteriorate quickly; checking the road status beforehand and considering a local driver is advisable, especially outside peak season.

Sources

• UNESCO World Heritage Centre – Upper Svaneti
• Georgian Railway
• Georgian National Tourism Administration — Racha Lechkhumi region
• UNESCO World Heritage — Upper Svaneti