Shovi

By Mariam Lomidze, GTour desk · Fact-checked against the sources listed · Last checked 17 October 2026 · Editorial policy

Overview

Shovi is a mountain resort in the upper Rioni gorge of Racha-Lechkhumi and Kvemo Svaneti, Georgia’s northwestern highland region. It sits inside Oni Municipality, at roughly 1,500–2,000 metres above sea level, hemmed in by the forested slopes of the Shoda-Kedela massif and the glaciers above it. The settlement is small — a cluster of Soviet-era sanatorium buildings, a handful of guesthouses, and a pine forest that gives the air its distinctive resinous scent — but its setting among some of the least-visited high Caucasus terrain in the country gives it a significance disproportionate to its size.

Shovi matters as the main access point for hikers heading into the Shoda-Kedela and Zekari Pass area, one of the classic overland routes linking Racha to Svaneti on foot. It is also one of the few highland resorts developed specifically for climate and rest tourism rather than skiing, a legacy of its Soviet-period role as a health retreat. For travellers assembling a Racha itinerary with GTour, Shovi is typically paired with Oni, Glola, Ambrolauri and the wine villages of Lechkhumi further down the valley.

History

Racha’s highland villages, including Glola near Shovi, have been inhabited since at least the medieval period, tied into the wider history of the Racha-Lechkhumi region documented in Georgian ecclesiastical and administrative records; the broader region’s churches and fortifications date mainly from the 10th to 17th centuries. Shovi itself has no comparable antiquity: it developed in the 20th century, during the Soviet period, when the site’s dry mountain air and forest setting led to its development as a climatic and balneological resort, with sanatorium buildings constructed for the treatment of respiratory conditions, a pattern repeated at several Georgian highland and seaside resorts of the same era.

From the 2000s onward, renewed interest in trekking and nature tourism brought a slow recovery, with guesthouses opening alongside the remaining sanatorium buildings. The disaster prompted renewed attention to hazard monitoring in the upper Rioni gorge and temporary restrictions on access to some trekking routes above the resort.

What to see

Shovi resort grounds

The resort itself consists of scattered Soviet-era sanatorium blocks set among pine and fir forest, with the Rioni River running below. It is a quiet base for acclimatising before heading into the mountains, rather than a sight in its own right, though the forest walks immediately around the buildings are pleasant on their own.

Shoda-Kedela massif and Buba Glacier

The ridge and glacier system above Shovi dominate the skyline and are the main draw for serious hikers. Routes into this massif require a full day or more and local knowledge of current conditions, particularly given the 2023 landslide event originating from this area; travellers should check conditions locally before setting out.

Udziro Lake

A glacial lake reached by a multi-hour hike above Shovi, Udziro sits in an open alpine bowl surrounded by scree slopes and late-lying snow. It is a popular day-hike destination in summer for visitors based at the resort.

Glola village and the Lukhuni gorge waterfalls

Glola, the last village before Shovi, has old stone houses and access to a series of waterfalls along the Lukhuni River gorge. It is a short detour from the main road and a good stop for travellers driving up from Oni.

Zekari Pass route toward Svaneti

Shovi is the Racha-side starting point for the multi-day trekking route over Zekari Pass into the Chuberi valley of Svaneti, one of the historic connections between the two regions. This is a demanding high-altitude route for experienced and well-equipped hikers only; see GTour’s guide to reaching Svaneti for the Svaneti-side approach and logistics.

Getting there

From Tbilisi, Shovi is reached by driving west on the main highway toward Kutaisi, then north via Nikortsminda and Ambrolauri to Oni, and finally up the Rioni gorge through Glola to the resort, a journey of about 4 hours 45 minutes by private car. Marshrutkas run from Tbilisi’s Didube station to Ambrolauri and Oni, from where local transport or a pre-arranged transfer covers the final stretch to Shovi; there is no direct scheduled marshrutka from Tbilisi to Shovi itself. There is no passenger rail service into Racha, so travellers using Georgian Railway typically combine a train to Kutaisi or Zestaponi with onward road transport.

From Kutaisi, the drive to Shovi takes around 2 hours 40 minutes via Ambrolauri and Oni, making Kutaisi a practical base for a shorter visit. From Batumi, the journey is about 5 hours 5 minutes, routed through Kutaisi. The final section of road above Oni climbs steadily and can be affected by seasonal conditions; checking GTour’s road status page before travelling, especially outside summer, is advisable. GTour arranges private transfers and guided day trips with an English-speaking driver-guide for travellers who prefer not to self-drive; see GTour’s tours for options.

When to go

Shovi is primarily a summer and early-autumn destination. Snow lingers at altitude well into June in most years, and the main hiking season runs from roughly late June to September, when trails to Udziro Lake and the Shoda-Kedela massif are clear. Winter brings heavy snowfall and limited services; Shovi is not developed as a ski resort on the scale of Gudauri or Bakuriani, and most guesthouses operate on a reduced schedule or close outside summer. Given the 2023 landslide, travellers planning high-altitude routes above the resort should confirm current access and conditions locally rather than relying solely on older trail descriptions.

Where to stay and eat

Accommodation in Shovi is limited to a small number of guesthouses and a few renovated sections of the former sanatorium complex, with simple home-style Racha cooking — khinkali, lobiani and local cheeses — typically served by hosts rather than in separate restaurants. Nearby Oni and Ambrolauri offer a wider range of guesthouses and small hotels for travellers who prefer a base lower in the valley. GTour’s verified register lists checked hotels, guesthouses and places to eat in and around Shovi and Racha more broadly; see the best-of selections and regional guides for current listings.

Practical notes

Mobile network coverage in Shovi and the surrounding gorge is intermittent, and card payment is unreliable, so carrying cash is recommended. The altitude and mountain weather mean conditions can change quickly even in summer; warm layers and waterproofs are advisable regardless of season. Given the fatal landslide event of August 2023 originating from the Buba glacier above the resort, travellers planning to hike into the high massif should seek current local advice on conditions and avoid routes affected by ongoing hazard assessment. Fuel and shops are limited beyond Oni, so travellers driving independently should fill up and stock supplies before the final ascent to Shovi.

Questions travellers ask

Is Shovi a ski resort?

Shovi was developed mainly as a summer climatic resort rather than a ski destination. Some winter recreation is possible locally, but it does not have the lift infrastructure of resorts such as Gudauri or Bakuriani.

How do you get to Shovi from Tbilisi?

By private car or transfer via Kutaisi, Ambrolauri and Oni, the drive takes about 4 hours 45 minutes. Marshrutkas run as far as Oni or Ambrolauri, with local transport needed for the final stretch.

What happened at Shovi in 2023?

In August 2023, a mudflow originating from the Buba glacier above the resort swept down the valley, causing fatalities and infrastructure damage. The event prompted closer monitoring of hazard conditions in the upper Rioni gorge.

Can you trek from Shovi to Svaneti?

Yes, a historic multi-day route crosses Zekari Pass into the Chuberi valley of Svaneti. It is a demanding high-altitude trek suited to experienced hikers with proper equipment and local guidance.

Is Shovi open in winter?

Most guesthouses and services operate on a reduced basis or close during winter due to heavy snowfall. Summer through early autumn is the main season for visiting.

What is there to see near Shovi?

Highlights include the Shoda-Kedela massif, Udziro Lake, the waterfalls of the Lukhuni gorge near Glola village, and the forested resort grounds themselves.

Is Shovi safe to visit now?

The resort itself remains accessible, but travellers planning routes into the high massif above Shovi should check current conditions locally given the 2023 landslide, and avoid areas under hazard restriction.

How far is Shovi from Oni?

Shovi lies a short drive up the Rioni gorge from Oni, the nearest town with broader services, typically well under an hour by car depending on road conditions.

Are there hotels in Shovi?

Accommodation is limited to a small number of guesthouses and partially renovated former sanatorium buildings. GTour’s verified register lists current options in Shovi and nearby Oni.

What is the best time to visit Shovi for hiking?

Late June through September offers the clearest trail conditions, once snow has retreated from higher elevations around Udziro Lake and the surrounding ridges.

Sources

• Georgian National Tourism Administration — Racha Lechkhumi region
• UNESCO World Heritage — Upper Svaneti